Jesień to pora roku, której warunki klimatyczne sprzyjają zabiegom złuszczającym w gabinecie kosmetycznym.
Z szerokiego wachlarza możliwości jednym z najczęściej wybieranych zabiegów jest złuszczenie kwasami. Zupełnie słusznie kojarzy się on nam z terapią przeciw trądzikową i niwelowaniem przebarwień różnego pochodzenia. Jednak procesy fizjologiczne wyzwalane za pomocą kwasów służą również innym zakresom w pielęgnacji skóry.
Kwasy organiczne to powszechnie znane substancje złuszczające. Zabieg w trakcie którego je stosujemy nazywamy peelingiem chemicznym. Zanim jednak zdecydujemy o aplikacji niezbędne jest wykluczenie wszelkich przeciwwskazań. Do najważniejszych należą:
- ? trwająca obecnie i do około pół oku po kuracja retinoidami
- ? stan krótko po zabiegach z zakresu medycyny estetycznej
- ? faza zapalna trądziku różowatego lub pospolitego
- ? planowana ekspozycja na słońce
- ? przebyta chemio lub radioterapia
- ? ciąża i okres karmienia piersią
- ? świeże blizny, rany i podrażnienia w okolicy zabiegowej
Jak głęboko nastąpi złuszczenie uzależnione jest od rodzaju kwasu, jego stężenia i pH. Chcąc zrozumieć dlaczego preparaty złuszczające stosujemy nie tylko w celach poprawy kolorytu cery musimy przyjrzeć się mechanizmowi ich działania.
Kwas zaaplikowany na skórę na kontakt z pierwszą warstwą naskórka zwana rogową. Jego właściwość chemiczna powoduje rozszczepienie połączeń pomiędzy keratynocytami, z których zbudowana jest warstwa rogowa naskórka. Dzięki temu szybciej postępuje proces ich odpadania i tworzenia nowych warstw skóry. W naturalnej, nie stymulowanej kwasami sytuacji odnowa warstwy rogowej trwa około trzech tygodni. Takie kontrolowane ponaglenie w odnowie naszej skóry ma swój skutek nie tylko w postaci pięknej gładkiej cery.
Badania naukowe, w trakcie których skrupulatnie sprawdzano stan naskórka potwierdziły, że po serii zabiegów z kwasami jest on:
- ? lepiej nawilżony ? ilość cząsteczek wody jest wyższa
- ? bardziej elastyczny – proces wytwarzania kolagenu zdecydowanie przyspiesza
- ? mniej podatny na infekcje ? kwasy działają antybakteryjnie
- ? jednolity kolorystycznie ? przebarwienia złuszczają się wraz z warstwą rogową.
Dzięki tak skomplikowanemu procesowi fizjologicznemu uzyskujemy szeroki wachlarz korzyści. Możemy powiedzieć, że popularne jesienią zabiegi kwasowe to nie tylko złuszczanie, ale również: odnowa komórkowa i działanie anty-aging.
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